Day 17, Sep 27, 2019, Moratinos to Bercianos, 12 miles - Reached the midpoint of our walk!
We slept in a bit and set out at 8:10 a.m. We were happy that we were staying at the same place another night so no packing etc. this morning. It was chill but clear and we had a nice walk along some ploughed in fields. Reached the first village very quickly - San Nicolas del Real Camino. Nothing here worth mentioning and we walked on for a while before reaching the actual midpoint on the Camino between Roncesvalles and Compostela!!! It was 2 miles out of Sahagun and had a little church (closed as usual)
and a couple of posts marking the midway point.
Definitely a seminal moment and we were thrilled! There was also a really old Roman bridge.
We continued on a rather grim path through the really grim industrial part of Sahagun before finding a little grocery store. We were running low on our fruit and snack supply. It was run by a Jordanian who was lovely and spoke simply impeccable English. We had a nice little chat with him and then walked on to the famous abbey of San Benedict (complete ruins - only two arches and a small chapel remain) and the church of San Tirso. The church is an old one and a good example of Mudejar work.
We also stopped at a little cafe right in front of the church and had our lunch - cafe con leche and a muffin. We happened to meet Joanne there. It was fun catching up and soon we were on our way. It wasn't much fun right out of Sahagun for nearly 2 miles.
Just walking right by the highway, which was bleahhh!! Then we came to the part that was shady and peaceful all the way to Bercianos. We saw a memorial for a pilgrim and then an old church that was closed. Sadly, we have not seen many open churches on the Meseta. We continued on to Bercianos and sat down at what seemed like the only bar in town. Got our usual cerveza con limon, a stamp on our passports, and called the owner of our hotel to come and pick us up. He came after twenty mins. and we got back to the hotel and relaxed, drank our chai, drained our legs etc. After a shower, I decided not to procrastinate any longer and typed up our blog. I forgot to mention yesterday, but a lot of the flat paths that we walked on were old Roman roads from even before the time of Caesar (Julius not Augustus). Apparently he even walked these roads! We are in exalted company!
and a couple of posts marking the midway point.
Definitely a seminal moment and we were thrilled! There was also a really old Roman bridge.
We continued on a rather grim path through the really grim industrial part of Sahagun before finding a little grocery store. We were running low on our fruit and snack supply. It was run by a Jordanian who was lovely and spoke simply impeccable English. We had a nice little chat with him and then walked on to the famous abbey of San Benedict (complete ruins - only two arches and a small chapel remain) and the church of San Tirso. The church is an old one and a good example of Mudejar work.
We also stopped at a little cafe right in front of the church and had our lunch - cafe con leche and a muffin. We happened to meet Joanne there. It was fun catching up and soon we were on our way. It wasn't much fun right out of Sahagun for nearly 2 miles.
Just walking right by the highway, which was bleahhh!! Then we came to the part that was shady and peaceful all the way to Bercianos. We saw a memorial for a pilgrim and then an old church that was closed. Sadly, we have not seen many open churches on the Meseta. We continued on to Bercianos and sat down at what seemed like the only bar in town. Got our usual cerveza con limon, a stamp on our passports, and called the owner of our hotel to come and pick us up. He came after twenty mins. and we got back to the hotel and relaxed, drank our chai, drained our legs etc. After a shower, I decided not to procrastinate any longer and typed up our blog. I forgot to mention yesterday, but a lot of the flat paths that we walked on were old Roman roads from even before the time of Caesar (Julius not Augustus). Apparently he even walked these roads! We are in exalted company!
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