Day 1, Sep 11, 2017, Roncesvalles to Zubiri 13.75 miles
We were, of course, jet lagged and wide awake at 3 a.m. Breakfast was not until 7, so we had a lot of time to kill. We had already collected our pilgrim passports and got a rain poncho as well to cover our backpacks, the day before. We had also packed our backpacks with all that we needed ( I know! soooo organized!!!) We just hung around the room and stressed a little about the fact that it was raining like crazy and why on earth should this happen to us on our first day etc. Then realized that we were starting on 9/11! Was this symbolic of something catastrophic? Only time would tell.
We went down to breakfast (potato tortilla, watermelon, and coffee) and came back up and grabbed our packs and decided not to postpone the inevitable any further. The path was clearly marked with the shell symbol & yellow arrow.
Intimidating thought but like they say a journey of a 1000 miles begins with one step. So we went forth in the pouring rain on the really squelchy muddy path. It was intensely green all around and truly lovely. The woods felt like we were walking through Hobbit country. We found out later that it was where "witches" were burnt during the Inquisition. A little chilling but that was in the 1600s. Now, it's a lovely green wood, very peaceful and verdant.
We walked for a bit following other pilgrims. We were never alone or out of sight of anyone else. It appears to be quite a busy time for the pilgrimage. We went through many picturesque Basque towns filled with beautiful window gardens and vegetable patches. The meadows were filled with cows, sheep, and horses. All in all, a picture of bucolic peace.
We were walking at a pretty good pace - 2.5 miles an hour despite the slippery and uneven surface etc. We made it to this really pretty town for lunch and decided to eat a cheese sandwich and rest our legs. 20 mins. later we were ready to get on the final stretch to Zubiri - 5 more miles.
As we walked along, the path got more hilly. So a lot more climbing and descending fairly steep paths. It wasn't really raining by this time but the ground was very soggy and the going was tough. Especially the last four kms.! This was quite a nightmare because the ground was just jagged rock and at a really steep angle covered in slippery mud. Thanks to Lisa's walking sticks we made it down in to Zubiri safely. But despite the hazards, the last part was fun due to our meeting two really fun gals - Lonnir from Brisbane, Australia and Sylvia from Cologne, Germany. These two really kept us laughing all the way to Zubiri. Through them, we found out about the husband box. Apparently there's a box on the Camino where if you drop off either your bra or your underwear and you will find your husband on the Camino. Lisa and I decided it's a good thing we didn't know about it - we think we'll keep our husbands instead of finding new ones. At last, we saw the village and the sign that said Zubiri. Also saw the famous bridge, Puente de Rabia, over the river Arga. This was truly the best sight ever. We walked over the bridge and the other two went looking for accommodation and we headed to the nearest bar for a beer and the first stamp on our pilgrim passports. The beer was a lemon beer (basically a shandy) and we sat outside waiting for our ride back to our hotel. The sun was out, all the other pilgrims were there as well drinking and chatting, the church bells were ringing - it was great! Lonnie and Sylvia came to join us as well as another Californian, Dave. Our ride came after a half hour or so and we headed back to the hotel for dinner, a shower and my blog update. Tomorrow we get dropped off in Zubiri at 7:30 in the morning to walk to Pamplona!
We were, of course, jet lagged and wide awake at 3 a.m. Breakfast was not until 7, so we had a lot of time to kill. We had already collected our pilgrim passports and got a rain poncho as well to cover our backpacks, the day before. We had also packed our backpacks with all that we needed ( I know! soooo organized!!!) We just hung around the room and stressed a little about the fact that it was raining like crazy and why on earth should this happen to us on our first day etc. Then realized that we were starting on 9/11! Was this symbolic of something catastrophic? Only time would tell.
We went down to breakfast (potato tortilla, watermelon, and coffee) and came back up and grabbed our packs and decided not to postpone the inevitable any further. The path was clearly marked with the shell symbol & yellow arrow.
Intimidating thought but like they say a journey of a 1000 miles begins with one step. So we went forth in the pouring rain on the really squelchy muddy path. It was intensely green all around and truly lovely. The woods felt like we were walking through Hobbit country. We found out later that it was where "witches" were burnt during the Inquisition. A little chilling but that was in the 1600s. Now, it's a lovely green wood, very peaceful and verdant.
We walked for a bit following other pilgrims. We were never alone or out of sight of anyone else. It appears to be quite a busy time for the pilgrimage. We went through many picturesque Basque towns filled with beautiful window gardens and vegetable patches. The meadows were filled with cows, sheep, and horses. All in all, a picture of bucolic peace.
You have how many more kilometers to go???
We were walking at a pretty good pace - 2.5 miles an hour despite the slippery and uneven surface etc. We made it to this really pretty town for lunch and decided to eat a cheese sandwich and rest our legs. 20 mins. later we were ready to get on the final stretch to Zubiri - 5 more miles.
As we walked along, the path got more hilly. So a lot more climbing and descending fairly steep paths. It wasn't really raining by this time but the ground was very soggy and the going was tough. Especially the last four kms.! This was quite a nightmare because the ground was just jagged rock and at a really steep angle covered in slippery mud. Thanks to Lisa's walking sticks we made it down in to Zubiri safely. But despite the hazards, the last part was fun due to our meeting two really fun gals - Lonnir from Brisbane, Australia and Sylvia from Cologne, Germany. These two really kept us laughing all the way to Zubiri. Through them, we found out about the husband box. Apparently there's a box on the Camino where if you drop off either your bra or your underwear and you will find your husband on the Camino. Lisa and I decided it's a good thing we didn't know about it - we think we'll keep our husbands instead of finding new ones. At last, we saw the village and the sign that said Zubiri. Also saw the famous bridge, Puente de Rabia, over the river Arga. This was truly the best sight ever. We walked over the bridge and the other two went looking for accommodation and we headed to the nearest bar for a beer and the first stamp on our pilgrim passports. The beer was a lemon beer (basically a shandy) and we sat outside waiting for our ride back to our hotel. The sun was out, all the other pilgrims were there as well drinking and chatting, the church bells were ringing - it was great! Lonnie and Sylvia came to join us as well as another Californian, Dave. Our ride came after a half hour or so and we headed back to the hotel for dinner, a shower and my blog update. Tomorrow we get dropped off in Zubiri at 7:30 in the morning to walk to Pamplona!
Lovely report!!
ReplyDeleteSo cute, like little school girls ... what's up with the arrow ??
ReplyDeleteYou guys are too adorable!! Living vicariously alredy💝
ReplyDeleteThe picture with one of you walking on a path in the woods with lush trees on both sides.. taken from a distance...needs to be a painting!! Really!
ReplyDelete